Some numbers, some caveats, some impressions.
As more and more 2022 Cabernet Francs are making their way through distribution channels and onto retail shelves, I am buying and tasting as many examples as I can in an effort to wrap my head around this vintage and its wines. Yet another (!!) warm, sunny and dry year, by all accounts 2022 is deemed by many to be a very good, if not excellent vintage for Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, particularly if you are a fan of riper styles from the region. But as vintages like these are seemingly becoming the “new normal,” what I am curious about is how does 2022 then compare to similar warm/sunny/dry vintages like 2020, 2019, 2018, 2015, 2010, 2009, 2005, 2003 etc., and what can we expect from the 2022s as they mature.
On paper, 2022 was the warmest, sunniest and driest vintage on record in the last thirty years.
Some Numbers
The total heat accumulation during the growing season in 2022 surpassed both 2018 and 2003, the second and third warmest years since 1990, respectively.
The total sunshine hours were more than 2019 and 2003, the years with the most sunshine during the growing season since 1990.
And in terms of rainfall, only 1990 and 1996 beat out 2022 with the lowest amount of precipitation during the growing season (144mm and 143mm respectively, versus 158mm in 2022).
Some Caveats
I know. Statistics and data aren’t the be all end all. So, the caveats.
Firstly, the above vintage weather data is courtesy the Chinon AOC and specific to this appellation. While this is a very good indicator of neighbouring Cabernet Franc appellations in the Loire, there are certainly nuances from region to region, commune to commune, and from vineyard to vineyard.
It is also important to remember that the specific timing of heat, sunshine and rain during the growing season can be more important in evaluating the success of a vintage than simply looking at the total accumulation of the numbers for the growing season. For example, if you look at a vintage like 2021, one of the wetter/cooler/less sunnier vintages in recent years, well-timed sunshine in September, by many accounts, saved this vintage, and many of the resulting wines exhibit more old school Loire Cab Franc profiles that many (myself included) are quite fond of.
Finally, as I have talked about before in many other posts, I do believe that vigneron and vineyard trump vintage. That is to say that knowing the vigneron and knowing the vineyard source is a better indication of the “quality” of a given wine rather than vintage. And then it simply becomes a question of personal preference and when that wine is best enjoyed, rather than judging the qualitative merits of the vintage.
Some (Initial) Impressions
So, how does all of this translate to what is in the glass? Well, suffice it to say, it is still early days, and while most of what I’ve tasted are the “early-drinking” styles from most domaines, I do have a few observations and initial impressions.
Off the top, I am seeing much better balance across the board in terms of ripeness levels, alcohols, acidities, and extraction levels, most notably compared to many 2018s, which was the second warmest year in recent vintages. While I don’t have specifics, it appears that since 2018 many vignerons have adapted better to these warm vintage conditions, both in terms of viticultural practices and how they work in the cellar to achieve greater balance in the finished wines.
Second, the deliciousness factor. With better balance comes more enjoyability. With many of the early-drinking examples I’ve tried, when the vigneron nails that right balance of riper fruit while maintaining Cabernet Franc’s herbal undertones, acidity, alcohol, and tannin level and texture, these wines are simply scrumptious. It’s hard not to love the seductive, plush fruit, and the moreish-ness and ease that many of these wines have in their youth. I have been guilty of quaffing down bottles perhaps a little faster than one should on more than one occasion.
Finally, some patience is required. It will still be a while before we start to the release of many of the most structured and age-worthy examples of Cabernet Franc from domaines across the region, many of which are still aging in barrel, tank or bottle. But those that I’ve tried, while very good, they will need time, a lot of time. Based on my tastings to date from this vintage and tastings of past vintages, I think the 2022 vintage most closely resembles 2015 and 2010, perhaps even 2005, in terms of power, concentration, density and overall structure. Some of these wines are behemoths (by Loire standards) that will likely a decade or more to come around. That’s not a bad thing, particularly for those with resources to be able to purchase and tuck away these wines as they are released.
Some Final Thoughts
Like everything with wine, working in absolutes isn’t helpful or realistic. What is seemingly a “great” vintage on release has the potential to be viewed less favourably as the wines evolve in the bottle and mature. And, of course, our own enjoyment of and appreciation for a wine is purely subjective. That said, so far I think the 2022 vintage has the makings of being a very good one at the very least, and I look forward to offering my insights on some of my favourites and how they are evolving over the months and years to come.
Recent Posts on 2022 Vintage Wines
Domaine Moly - 2022 Saumur Rouge “La Nomade” and 2022 Saumur-Champigny “Les Sybarites”
Domaine Yannick Amirault - 2022 Bourgueil “Côte 50”
Domaine Arnaud Lambert - 2022 Saumur Rouge ‘Mazurique’
Have you had any 2022s you’ve enjoyed? Suggestions are always welcome!
As you may remember, I spent a week a pied in Anjou Noir in early June 2022. The temperature was up to 113°F. All the vignerons couldn't help but talk about climate change and the future for Anjou wines. Emmanuel Ogereau was especially pessimistic about the future. His feelings of "helplessness" during our conversations were palpable.
In 2019 I was in the vineyards of Vouvray at the beginning of harvest (1st week of September). So many grapes were totally brulee from the summer heat.
I found your charts very interesting and very worthwhile studying. I am curious about what they represent. The Loire wine region extends along Loire River and its tributaries for around 1,000 kilometers. From Cotes du Forez to Pays Nantais. That means, of course, that weather data will be quite different for different AOPs. From Continental to Maritime. So, what is the weather data based upon? Is it some kind of average? Which has limited utility. Or, because we are talking about Loire Cabernet Franc, is it weather data for Middle Loire (Saumur, in effect)?
Allison, I so appreciate your passion and intense focus on Cab Franc. You're a legend in the making! 🥂
Yes!! Had to get a 2022 of Domaine de la Noblaie, Les Chiens Chiens (I bought their last 2018s!) can’t wait to try - watching your video on their 2014 vintage now 🙏